Thursday, February 19, 2009

Eating Uptown: The Old Warsaw

This review kinda makes me sad.

You see, The Old Warsaw should be the kind of old school fine dining restaurant that I would embrace. After all, it is the old school atmosphere of Morton’s, and to some extent the Uptown Truluck’s, that make each of these some of my favorite local eateries. But, alas, the place just didn’t have IT. And I wish I knew what IT was. Because then I would open up a restaurant with IT and make a fortune.

Things started off well. My Bombay Sapphire martini was nothing short of perfection. And it arrived in a very timely manner. But then again, it should have. Maybe it’s the economy or perhaps the Mavericks game going on down the street, or maybe it was because it was Lost night. But this cavernous restaurant had only two tables going.

Next came the lobster bisque. Usually the highlight of any story, here we got a minor misstep. It was luscious with large chunks of lobster. But it was not the flavor explosion I anticipated – very good, just not great.

And this is essentially what was wrong with this place. My appetizer of crab stuffed jumbo shrimp was very good, just not great. My halibut was very good, just not great. It was also a bit undercooked and oddly paired with rice. It may be just a prejudice of mine, but I don’t associate rice with fine dining. Risotto, yes and perhaps a nice pilaf. But this was just rice.
Dessert consisted of a slice of very good (but not great) coconut cake and an extremely mediocre slice of carrot cake.

Ultimately, this is restaurant with very good food that I have no desire to ever go back and revisit.

B



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